The train from Windermere to Penzance was a little on the long side (didn't realize we were travelling almost the entire length of the country). We arrived at 9pm, just in time for the last bus into Land's End. We heard it was touristy though so we found a place in The Lonely Planet called Whitesands Lodge just outside called in a town called Sennen (it had also been suggested that we check out Sennen crag). Its said you could camp their for £6/night, but when we turned up this was not the case and everything they had roomwise was full. So it was 11pm and we were on some rural road in the dark walking in the direction the guy at the lodge told us there was a camping farm. We showed up to a sign saying site full, but reception was closed so we pitched anyways and packed up early. We figured there had to be more in Land's End, so we walked back out and waited for the bus. When we arrived in Land's End we were very disappointed. There was nothing but a couple shops saying "First and Last this/that" and an information counter that had no information except about the 3 or so tourist shows you could see there. There was however a map, which upon viewing made us realize the campsite we were in this morning was exactly where we wanted to be... DOH! So we walked the 1.5miles back into Sennen so we could take in the rugged and beautiful coastline and figure out what there was in the way of a town. Along the way we saw some climbers topping out on the cliff we never would have seen otherwise. We arrived back at the campsite and they found some room for us, and finally after a little stress and some sweating we were somewhat established. All I could think was that it was good we stopped for groceries along our train ride the day before. After the exertions for the day we just wanted to collapse, so we went down to the beach for some swimming, sleeping and sunning.
The next morning was a little drizzly so we got a late start, and headed to the cliff we discovered yesterday. It was full of awesome sea cliff climbing on really steep and pebbly granite. From the top it was hard to tell, but it was absolutely full of great, fun routes. It was also cool to have the waves crashing in below. The entire day was full of little drizzles that weren't enough to effect the climbing... until the afternoon. We decided to call it our last route and David had made it up in the rain and was setting up a belay when all of a sudden I was standing under a waterfull. The groove he went up turned out to be a main path or water that finally started flowing. So David hauled up the pack and I commenced climbing through the running river. Needless to say it was a struggle and I was soaked when I reached the top. It ran up my sleeves when I would reach up and in my shoes and my shorts looked like I sat in a puddle... or wet myself :P We called it a day and went back to the campsite, where we did some much needed laundry.
The next days forecast was similiar to the previous, so we decided to stay on the beach where we'd be wet anyways and rent some surf boards. It was really good surf in the morning, but became a little crowded. We were headed up the beach when gale force winds came in and were driving the rain so hard you had to turn away from it; I hid behind my surfboard. We decided to take a break at this point and chow down on the Cornish pasties we bought earlier. We stayed out of the water for awhile as the weather continued to suck and the high tide was bad for the surf. A couple hours later we jumped back in and the waves were awesome, but a little huge for our inexperienced selves. We had several good wipeouts. David was amused to watch me atop a big one and then see the look on my face when I realized the board was going to nose in and I would end up head over heels. At the end of the day we returned our stuff cleaned up and went out for dinner. I had locally caught fish (mmm mmm) and chips, and David steak and kidney pie. If we thought the weather was bad in the day, it had nothing on what came through in the night. It got so windy I was worried the tent was going to blow away around us. It did however rip out one of the stakes which I didn't realize till there was running water in the tent. I fixed it however and we survived till morning.
Today we packed up our soaked tent and bused back to Penzance where we caught a train to London. Unfortunately this did not go as smoothly as most of our other train travels. About half way through a few miles from a stop someone committed suicide by throwing themselves in front of our train. Needless to say this caused some delay. We got to the next station where after some waiting the next train caught up and they moved us to that one. I'd say this was a good decision as I saw the looks on the faces of the people facing our train as we pulled away. Unfortunately it meant it was over-crowded and people were bitchy. The rest of the journey was spent getting bumped into stepped on and stopping bags from falling everywhere. We made it to London though and are all checked into our hostel now, and with full bellies we feel much better. Only 3 more days... can't wait to see all of you then.
Ta ta for now
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Wind, climbing and wind
We made it out to the Peak District without a hitch. After a 45min walk through sheep filled pastures we arrived at the campsite and after setting up still had time for climbing. We stayed here for three nights and got two more solid days of climbing in, in areas called Stanage Edge and Burbage Edge. It was great especially once you trust the true stickiness of gritstone. It was however incredibly windy, but we were told we were just lucky it wasn't raining. I guess the weather here has been the pits the last few summers and we seem to have brought in a good spell of it. After our three nights in the Peaks we took the train out to Manchester where we stopped for fish and chips and tea for only £3.10. This was on our way to Windermere and the Lake district. We were told once in Windermere we could take a bus to Langdale where we would be in walking access to some brilliant climbing. Unfortunately the bus only goes to Langdale from Windermere on Saturday... and we arrived kinda late, so everything was closed... We caught a bus to Ambleside where we could have got to Langdale from, had it been earlier... After feeling kinda standed and debating our options for a couple hours we caught a taxi to Langdale. The guy was so friendly and told us where everything was and what campsite we should stay at if we were climbing etc. etc. It was definately worth the extra cost. The next day we got in some more climbing on some volcanic rock called tuff. Luckily we met a couple people and they pointed us up some good routes. The next day we were on a mission for an area called Gimmer crag. Unfortunately without a guide or map it was a little more illusive. After a couple hours we found our way there and another nice man pointed us up a very good route. We came down and decided to go for another and just as we reached the top the rain started. We thought the way down would be much easier, but this was not the case. We tried to go the more direct way and ended up getting lost amoungst the sheeps paths, talus and bracken. Luckily the storm was not more severe. We made it down a little wet, and the storm continued through the night. We packed up this morning and made our way back to Windermere. We're at the library now, waiting for our train back to Manchester, then its on to Penzance and Land's End in the region of Cornwall. Its the peninsula-ish bit sticking out the south-west end. Apparently there's great sea cliff climbing, surfing and generally nice beaches and hot weather... mmmmm. After that we're in London for a few days, and then its home on Aug 2nd. Man time flies.
Cheers
Cheers
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Haggis and bagpipes
So I haven't posted in awhile, because once we arrived on the British Isle everything became more expensive again. Plus there was so much to see and do in Edinburgh truth be told I couldn't be bothered. Currently we're in Hull at my friend Stuart's house. I met him originally four years ago in Australia on the International Air Cadet Exchange. We have some down time and he just got a new laptop so here it is.
The day after my last post we were up at 4am. It means we got to watch the sunrise from our Hostel Boat, but we were a little groggy and rushed to appreciate it. By 7:30am we were on an EasyJet flight to London, where we would transfer onto another flight to Glasgow. Unfortunately we booked them seperately so had to go through Customs in London, which we learned is very comparable to US customs. The lady speaking to David told him "Don't be sorry, be happy I don't send you back to where you came from". Haha, all because we didn't fill in the address on our landing cards, because we weren't 100% sure which one to give and we didn't know the hostel address in Glasgow. In the end we gave them Stuart's address and they were happy; its a good thing we had more than four hours in between our flights. We got to Glasgow and did some wandering in the afternoon before getting on a bus to Edinburgh in the evening. I am glad everyone we talked to to us not to stay in Glasgow and spend as much time as possible in Edinburgh. Even the old crazy man on the street in Glasgow told us not to stay there, and he was only happy after we reassured him we were going to the bus station to catch a bus away from Glasgow. Edinburgh was beautiful, and we did see (mostly hear actually) pipers in the street. We settled into the hostel, chatted with some fellow backpackers in the hostel before calling it a day.
In the morning we met up for another one of New Europe's free tours... I tell you this company is a dream come true. We saw all the major sights and heard many interesting stories behind them all. It seems this country's history is based solely on legends and lore rather than dates and names; this makes it very entertaining. After the tour we wandered up to the castle, but didn't pay the £12 entrance fee (holy expensive). From here we basically walked down the main old street stopping at the writer's museum and for free haggis samples (not so bad I must admit), all the way to the edge of town. Here was Holyrood palace (the Queen's residence in Scotland) and the new parliament building. It stands out drastically new against the old stone of the rest of the city. Its supposed to represent all of Scotland and has random rocks and puzzle pieces and sticks attached all over the outside of the main cement structure. On this side of the city is also park land, with some trails and we walked up the mountainy hill to Arthur's seat. Here we had an awesome 360 degree view (when we weren't in a cloud and it wasn't raining). We could see the whole city and the ocean on the other side. In the the evening we paid for one of New Europe's supplementary tours; a Ghost Tour of Edinburgh. It wasn't really scary, but you get to hear a lot more stories, mainly the eerie or spooky ones. They took us to a cemetary, and the sites of witch burnings and pagan rituals etc. Afterwards they dumped us off at a bar with free drink tickets. We stayed and chatted for awhile then went to the club mentioned in the tour. It is built into the old vaults of the south bridge, where all kinds of things used to go down. A pretty cool, but eerie place, it was dead so we didn't stay long. Back at the hostel we recognised some people from the night before and also met two new cynical Danes who were great entertainment.
In the morning we were introduced to their penguin, Rowdy (yes it is in tribute to the stuffed dog on Scrubs) who they were touring around Britain with. In fact they were going to walk 450km from one side to the other, but hadn't started yet due to misplaced luggage. When we finally left to catch a bus to Hull we learned we had missed the once daily bus at 10:50am... and trains are more than twice as expensive... but not with a railcard. We bit the bullet and bought a railcard (we will use it again and it paid for itself in one use), however it did cost us almost $300 Canadian for a 4hr train ride, ouch. Last night in Hull Stuey took us out on the town. We pub hopped to few places, but my favourite was "Ye Olde Hart". A totally old place, with a ton of history and a skull behind the counter. We even met a guy lodging there who proceeded to recount stories about the multiple ghost encounters he had experienced. It was here I also developed the title of "the angry lady". Really I just had to pee bad and all the stalls were busy, so once I did get one I may have shut the door a little forcefully.
Today Stu took us into the city of York. It had an amazing cathedral, but we didn't get to view it in detail as there was a wedding taking place. We were lucky how ever as there was a multi-cultural festival taking place, so we had some yummy indian food and enjoyed the music. We also picked up info on the Peak District (our next stop) and had chivalry lessons at the castle tower... I was even dubbed a knight.
After some time in the books and online we have an idea of where we'll be in the Peak District the next week or so, however, we're not sure of the facilities and we will be camping, so this may be the last update for awhile. We're hoping the weather clears up as the area is supposed to be beautiful and world reknown for climbing... fingers crossed.
Till next time
The day after my last post we were up at 4am. It means we got to watch the sunrise from our Hostel Boat, but we were a little groggy and rushed to appreciate it. By 7:30am we were on an EasyJet flight to London, where we would transfer onto another flight to Glasgow. Unfortunately we booked them seperately so had to go through Customs in London, which we learned is very comparable to US customs. The lady speaking to David told him "Don't be sorry, be happy I don't send you back to where you came from". Haha, all because we didn't fill in the address on our landing cards, because we weren't 100% sure which one to give and we didn't know the hostel address in Glasgow. In the end we gave them Stuart's address and they were happy; its a good thing we had more than four hours in between our flights. We got to Glasgow and did some wandering in the afternoon before getting on a bus to Edinburgh in the evening. I am glad everyone we talked to to us not to stay in Glasgow and spend as much time as possible in Edinburgh. Even the old crazy man on the street in Glasgow told us not to stay there, and he was only happy after we reassured him we were going to the bus station to catch a bus away from Glasgow. Edinburgh was beautiful, and we did see (mostly hear actually) pipers in the street. We settled into the hostel, chatted with some fellow backpackers in the hostel before calling it a day.
In the morning we met up for another one of New Europe's free tours... I tell you this company is a dream come true. We saw all the major sights and heard many interesting stories behind them all. It seems this country's history is based solely on legends and lore rather than dates and names; this makes it very entertaining. After the tour we wandered up to the castle, but didn't pay the £12 entrance fee (holy expensive). From here we basically walked down the main old street stopping at the writer's museum and for free haggis samples (not so bad I must admit), all the way to the edge of town. Here was Holyrood palace (the Queen's residence in Scotland) and the new parliament building. It stands out drastically new against the old stone of the rest of the city. Its supposed to represent all of Scotland and has random rocks and puzzle pieces and sticks attached all over the outside of the main cement structure. On this side of the city is also park land, with some trails and we walked up the mountainy hill to Arthur's seat. Here we had an awesome 360 degree view (when we weren't in a cloud and it wasn't raining). We could see the whole city and the ocean on the other side. In the the evening we paid for one of New Europe's supplementary tours; a Ghost Tour of Edinburgh. It wasn't really scary, but you get to hear a lot more stories, mainly the eerie or spooky ones. They took us to a cemetary, and the sites of witch burnings and pagan rituals etc. Afterwards they dumped us off at a bar with free drink tickets. We stayed and chatted for awhile then went to the club mentioned in the tour. It is built into the old vaults of the south bridge, where all kinds of things used to go down. A pretty cool, but eerie place, it was dead so we didn't stay long. Back at the hostel we recognised some people from the night before and also met two new cynical Danes who were great entertainment.
In the morning we were introduced to their penguin, Rowdy (yes it is in tribute to the stuffed dog on Scrubs) who they were touring around Britain with. In fact they were going to walk 450km from one side to the other, but hadn't started yet due to misplaced luggage. When we finally left to catch a bus to Hull we learned we had missed the once daily bus at 10:50am... and trains are more than twice as expensive... but not with a railcard. We bit the bullet and bought a railcard (we will use it again and it paid for itself in one use), however it did cost us almost $300 Canadian for a 4hr train ride, ouch. Last night in Hull Stuey took us out on the town. We pub hopped to few places, but my favourite was "Ye Olde Hart". A totally old place, with a ton of history and a skull behind the counter. We even met a guy lodging there who proceeded to recount stories about the multiple ghost encounters he had experienced. It was here I also developed the title of "the angry lady". Really I just had to pee bad and all the stalls were busy, so once I did get one I may have shut the door a little forcefully.
Today Stu took us into the city of York. It had an amazing cathedral, but we didn't get to view it in detail as there was a wedding taking place. We were lucky how ever as there was a multi-cultural festival taking place, so we had some yummy indian food and enjoyed the music. We also picked up info on the Peak District (our next stop) and had chivalry lessons at the castle tower... I was even dubbed a knight.
After some time in the books and online we have an idea of where we'll be in the Peak District the next week or so, however, we're not sure of the facilities and we will be camping, so this may be the last update for awhile. We're hoping the weather clears up as the area is supposed to be beautiful and world reknown for climbing... fingers crossed.
Till next time
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
From the country to the city
Güstrow was a pretty amazing little town. They all have so much history here. Everywhere has there own castle, a few impressive churches etc. and this is what we saw today, all without tourists. We did however run into a lady carrying a basket full of kittens she was trying to get rid of. They were so cute and its good we had someone with us who spoke the language. Earlier in the morning we finally had the priviledge of meeting Angelika, Thomas and Cordula's daughter and the owner of the room we spent 3 nights in. We all went out to lunch and David and I enjoyed some of the best fish we've ever had. Similiar to trout but specific to that area of Germany. The end of our tour of Güstrow took us to a small restaurant where Angelika and several students from her music school where having a recital type concert. They were all very good, especially Angelika's rendition of "Memories" on the harp. I felt bad interrupting with my cough, but it is getting much better finally. We spent one more lovely evening in Güstrow and in the morning caught a train to Berlin.
We found the hostel quite easily as you have to cross through the longest surviving section of the Berlin wall to get to the river Spree on which our hostel boat is parked. We are paying 12 Euro a night to pitch our tent on the deck! It's great. There's an awesome view and I get rocked to sleep. After setting up we made our way to the New Europe office, the starting point of our free bike tour! It was great, just like the one in Paris, but able to cover more ground. We saw museum island with the Berlin Dome, the TV Tower, Berlin wall, the site of the 1933 book burning, the Hitler Bunker (where Hitler spent all his time leading up to his suicide in 1945), the Reichstag (parliament), The Holocaust memorial, Brandenburg Gate and much else along the way. The gate is topped with a statue once stolen by Naplolean, but they stole it back. In fact we saw its replica in Paris.
Today we slept in then made our way to Potsdam, just outside Berlin. We spent the day wandering around its gardens and palaces built in the time of Prussian Kaisers. We even toured through Freidrich I art museum. On the way back we made a couple cafe stops to eat, drink and watch the world go by. Berlin has been an interesting place. Outwardly it looks quite run down, especially in the east, but that seems to be where you see the trendiest people and the most action. As our guide kept saying the city is quite poor, but it is in such a state of renewel and rebirth. There was a building overtop of the square with the book burning memorial where a big fashion show will be in 2009 and its historical building are covered in Mercedes ads...
Tscöss
We found the hostel quite easily as you have to cross through the longest surviving section of the Berlin wall to get to the river Spree on which our hostel boat is parked. We are paying 12 Euro a night to pitch our tent on the deck! It's great. There's an awesome view and I get rocked to sleep. After setting up we made our way to the New Europe office, the starting point of our free bike tour! It was great, just like the one in Paris, but able to cover more ground. We saw museum island with the Berlin Dome, the TV Tower, Berlin wall, the site of the 1933 book burning, the Hitler Bunker (where Hitler spent all his time leading up to his suicide in 1945), the Reichstag (parliament), The Holocaust memorial, Brandenburg Gate and much else along the way. The gate is topped with a statue once stolen by Naplolean, but they stole it back. In fact we saw its replica in Paris.
Today we slept in then made our way to Potsdam, just outside Berlin. We spent the day wandering around its gardens and palaces built in the time of Prussian Kaisers. We even toured through Freidrich I art museum. On the way back we made a couple cafe stops to eat, drink and watch the world go by. Berlin has been an interesting place. Outwardly it looks quite run down, especially in the east, but that seems to be where you see the trendiest people and the most action. As our guide kept saying the city is quite poor, but it is in such a state of renewel and rebirth. There was a building overtop of the square with the book burning memorial where a big fashion show will be in 2009 and its historical building are covered in Mercedes ads...
Tscöss
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Foiled by Adrspach, Hello Deutschland
Our next day in Adrspach started out overcast, but our first priorty was finding a way to Berlin. We finally agreed the overnight bus was the best, but had no way to purchase tickets, unless we could be in Prague by 6pm. We phoned and the bus that night was already full, so this made the process much simpler. The longer and more expensive train trip tomorrow it would be. At least we wouldn't arrive in Berlin at 5:15am as we would with the bus. David went on a mission to buy us tickets and I rested at the campsite. His task was more difficult than it would seem. He ran into Teplice (closest town to our campsite) but the train station there was unmanned. So he got a hopefully correct amount of cash and caught the trolley train back to Adrspach. Here, he communicated in varying ways with the non-english speaking ticket woman the best route for us to get to Berlin (quite compex with several changes), and bought two tickets... then ran back to the campsite... Quite the accomplishment. Upon his return we went on a walk through the Teplice rocks. Similiar to the Adrspach site as you pay an admission and there's a little tour route with signs and names etc. Many of the lines on these rocks looked beautiful as well, but unfortunately the day had turned into rain and mist. Back at the campsite we retired early as our 15 hour journey would begin early (6am).
In the morning we packed up and were at the train station in perfect time. Everything was going smoothly until we got off at the wrong stop in Teplice, an easy mistake to make as they all have very similiar names and we had never been to the third one. Luckily we had half an hour so we booked it through the town and found the next station with 2 min to spare. So much for breakfast. From here the journey went on without a hitch and at 5:13pm we were in Berlin. The trainstation was huge, but thankfully our train was only half an hour late giving us almost an hour to find cash and buy tickets to Güstrow. More on this: when we hiked the West Coast trail just before going on this trip we met a German couple and a few others who we would see at the campsites every night. While on this trip we received an email from them and decided to take them up on their nice offer to come stay with them in Güstrow and they would show us the Baltic Sea and surrounding area. So we arrived in Güstrow at 9pm where Cordula and Thomas met us at the train station. Were we ever happy for some food, a shower and comfy bed.
The following day we drove the half hour out to the seaside town of Rostock. Here Thomas and Cordula showed us through the throngs of tourists, to some of the best things on the Baltic. We had herring sandwiches (raw, but preserved in a way like sashimi - it was delicious), beer and mead (a honey wine from the medieval times). All the while taking in the sights and sounds of a fishing village. We made our way to the beach and were pleasantly suprised. We were both expecting something quite rugged and rocky, but it was fine white sand as far as we could see. The water was warm as well, it was like we were on a tropical beach somewhere. We walked for a ways and after some time were chased out by the weather. It was very rapidly changing today. Thankfully when the big downpour came we were under an awning enjoying a beer. Now it was just windy. Back at there house we prepared for dinner. They took us to a town nearby where a retired world famous Flamenco dancer had retired. She converted the barn into a dance school/studio upstairs and a cafe downstairs where she also showcased her painting. We enjoyed antipasto, wine and payaya all the while being entertained by Flamnco, Tango and belly dancing performances. She even had a spanish guitarist who she performed with. It was amazing. A Spanish night in a small village in Eastern Germany, who woulda thunk it.
Today they going to show us their town of Güstow. I can hardly wait.
Ciao
In the morning we packed up and were at the train station in perfect time. Everything was going smoothly until we got off at the wrong stop in Teplice, an easy mistake to make as they all have very similiar names and we had never been to the third one. Luckily we had half an hour so we booked it through the town and found the next station with 2 min to spare. So much for breakfast. From here the journey went on without a hitch and at 5:13pm we were in Berlin. The trainstation was huge, but thankfully our train was only half an hour late giving us almost an hour to find cash and buy tickets to Güstrow. More on this: when we hiked the West Coast trail just before going on this trip we met a German couple and a few others who we would see at the campsites every night. While on this trip we received an email from them and decided to take them up on their nice offer to come stay with them in Güstrow and they would show us the Baltic Sea and surrounding area. So we arrived in Güstrow at 9pm where Cordula and Thomas met us at the train station. Were we ever happy for some food, a shower and comfy bed.
The following day we drove the half hour out to the seaside town of Rostock. Here Thomas and Cordula showed us through the throngs of tourists, to some of the best things on the Baltic. We had herring sandwiches (raw, but preserved in a way like sashimi - it was delicious), beer and mead (a honey wine from the medieval times). All the while taking in the sights and sounds of a fishing village. We made our way to the beach and were pleasantly suprised. We were both expecting something quite rugged and rocky, but it was fine white sand as far as we could see. The water was warm as well, it was like we were on a tropical beach somewhere. We walked for a ways and after some time were chased out by the weather. It was very rapidly changing today. Thankfully when the big downpour came we were under an awning enjoying a beer. Now it was just windy. Back at there house we prepared for dinner. They took us to a town nearby where a retired world famous Flamenco dancer had retired. She converted the barn into a dance school/studio upstairs and a cafe downstairs where she also showcased her painting. We enjoyed antipasto, wine and payaya all the while being entertained by Flamnco, Tango and belly dancing performances. She even had a spanish guitarist who she performed with. It was amazing. A Spanish night in a small village in Eastern Germany, who woulda thunk it.
Today they going to show us their town of Güstow. I can hardly wait.
Ciao
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
More Czech
In our mission to aviod tourists we went up to Vysehrad. An old fortress on the river at the very south of town. It was beautiful and had amazing views of the city, but was still pretty crowded, I guess everyone had our idea. We wandered around the old church and cemetary, enjoyed a nap, and just generally took it all in. We walked back to the hostel along Pragues version of the sea wall. We tried to visit the brewery Dmytro told me about called Novomestsky Pivorvar, New Town Brewery, but it was unfortunately closed. So we had dinner at the hostel where we met some people, all who were coincidentally staying in our room. We stayed up till the wee hours chatting before getting some rest.
In the morning we took a bus to Kutna Hora. An old silver mining town, with a uniquely famous chapel. We arrived in the pouring rain and began our search for a hostel. We got a map and list from the tourist office and decided on the hostel closest to the bus station... it was also the cheapest. However we had some difficulty finding its entrance. We ended up on a muddy trail for some time when we came out on its patio, with no way of getting in and no way around, so we continued through the mud. We finally found the entrance to what looked like the shadiest place ever... this place was made of the stuff movies like Hostel are based on. Not only that but men we staring at us out of the windows of a nearby building and there was some sort of factory right next door. So we wussed out and opted for the cheapest hotel in town. It was nice and now I could cough the night away to my hearts content. After settling in we went to the chapel, also known as, the Bone Church. The bones of about 40 000 people are laid to rest here and in the surrounding cemetary, and many are used to decorate the chapel with everything from garlands to chandaliers and even a coat of arms. In each corner there were enormous pyramids of bones, all free standing. After the chapel we checked out the old town and St. Barbaras cathedral. It was as impressive and very similiar looking to St. Vitus with less than one tenth the people. On the way back to the hotel we found a cheap little pub for dinner, but could not read the Czech menu, and no one spoke english, so we ordered randomly, the cheapest most delicious dinner of our trip.
After a restful evening we ventured from Kutna Hora to Adrspach on the train. It was a confusing process, but thanks to a nice rail worker we figured it out. We arrived again with no place to stay, and again no one spoke english. After inquiring at some hotels, we had eventually walked the 3km to the campsite. This is where we acquired a space for three nights based on very broken German and hand gestures. The only problem was after paying we had no cash. So on another adventure we eventually found a little town centre, complete with bank machine, internet and restaurant. We finalised our plans with Cordula and Thomas and had dinner all at a great deal.
Today we went back into Adrspach and wandered around the touristy rock town. It was very impressive, but unfortunately it had been raining and we could not climb. Hopefully we will have better luck tomorrow. And maybe I will start feeling better.
P.S. I cannot find the apostrophe on this keyboard if you have not noticed.
Good night.
In the morning we took a bus to Kutna Hora. An old silver mining town, with a uniquely famous chapel. We arrived in the pouring rain and began our search for a hostel. We got a map and list from the tourist office and decided on the hostel closest to the bus station... it was also the cheapest. However we had some difficulty finding its entrance. We ended up on a muddy trail for some time when we came out on its patio, with no way of getting in and no way around, so we continued through the mud. We finally found the entrance to what looked like the shadiest place ever... this place was made of the stuff movies like Hostel are based on. Not only that but men we staring at us out of the windows of a nearby building and there was some sort of factory right next door. So we wussed out and opted for the cheapest hotel in town. It was nice and now I could cough the night away to my hearts content. After settling in we went to the chapel, also known as, the Bone Church. The bones of about 40 000 people are laid to rest here and in the surrounding cemetary, and many are used to decorate the chapel with everything from garlands to chandaliers and even a coat of arms. In each corner there were enormous pyramids of bones, all free standing. After the chapel we checked out the old town and St. Barbaras cathedral. It was as impressive and very similiar looking to St. Vitus with less than one tenth the people. On the way back to the hotel we found a cheap little pub for dinner, but could not read the Czech menu, and no one spoke english, so we ordered randomly, the cheapest most delicious dinner of our trip.
After a restful evening we ventured from Kutna Hora to Adrspach on the train. It was a confusing process, but thanks to a nice rail worker we figured it out. We arrived again with no place to stay, and again no one spoke english. After inquiring at some hotels, we had eventually walked the 3km to the campsite. This is where we acquired a space for three nights based on very broken German and hand gestures. The only problem was after paying we had no cash. So on another adventure we eventually found a little town centre, complete with bank machine, internet and restaurant. We finalised our plans with Cordula and Thomas and had dinner all at a great deal.
Today we went back into Adrspach and wandered around the touristy rock town. It was very impressive, but unfortunately it had been raining and we could not climb. Hopefully we will have better luck tomorrow. And maybe I will start feeling better.
P.S. I cannot find the apostrophe on this keyboard if you have not noticed.
Good night.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Prague so far
So we left the land of beautiful women (Hungary - it really is full of some of the most gorgeous women I have ever seen) and arrived in the city of tourists. We were able to spend all our forins, which the bus driver was unimpressed with, as there was a small fee for stowed baggage, fortunately we got on, it just meant our bags were handled a little roughly. Our first night here we went to Charles bridge, and it seems everyone else had the same idea until we saw how packed it was today. After the bridge we stopped at the museum of medieval torture... how glad I am to be living in the 20th/21st century. Some of the things we saw were so horriflying it is difficult to comprehend their reality and that people actually experienced it. Anyways moving along. Our appetites were so worked up we had to stop for a nice Czech dinner. We ducked down a side street and found this cool old looking stone pub, with the heaviest wooden chairs imaginable. I had some meat with gravy and dumplings and David had the same sort of dumplings in goulash. He said they were just like his Gramma used to make and quite delicious. I was starting to feel sick so we called it a night early. I popped in the earplugs and slept like a log.
Unfortunately it did nothing for my illness and I woke up feeling like I was hit by a train. You can even see my re-enactment of it on film when we return. So, our first stop was the pharmacy where I got just the drugs I needed. Our destination today was the old Prague Castle. We read in the book that the changing of the guards occured at 12 noon and it was 11:30am. So we "froggered" it through the throngs on Charles bridge and arrived just in time. It was busy but we got up a little higher on some scaffolding. After that we tried getting into St. Vitus' cathedral, but the line up was outrageous, so we bought a ticket for some of the other sights. Our favourite was the story of Prague Castle. The history of people inhabiting the area dates back to at least 5000 BC. We saw all kinds of impressive old relics. The Convent of St George was another highlight as it housed Czech art from the last 2 centuries. There was a lot of it too. After so many pictures of mountain scenes and portraits we were a little weary. Walking towards something else we saw St. Vitus' line had dwindled to nothing so we went in. It was very impressive, especially the stained glass. Glad to get away from the crowds we went out through the gardens and eventually back to our hostel neighborhood for some chinese food dinner. We booked flights to the UK which was also quite exciting. We fly out of Berlin on July 16th. After dinner we were in search of a quiet drink at a Jazz club. Unfortunately the recommended location had an expensive cover, so we found a place nearby. However, there was some kind of party in the back room with music as well, so when the Jazz trio was due to come back on instead they refused to play. We left shortly after for a walk down the main street in the new town. It was full of Cabarets playing "Grease Lightning". We're back at the hostel now and its off to bed. We hope to avoid the tourists tomorrow. Wish us luck.
Na Shledanou
Unfortunately it did nothing for my illness and I woke up feeling like I was hit by a train. You can even see my re-enactment of it on film when we return. So, our first stop was the pharmacy where I got just the drugs I needed. Our destination today was the old Prague Castle. We read in the book that the changing of the guards occured at 12 noon and it was 11:30am. So we "froggered" it through the throngs on Charles bridge and arrived just in time. It was busy but we got up a little higher on some scaffolding. After that we tried getting into St. Vitus' cathedral, but the line up was outrageous, so we bought a ticket for some of the other sights. Our favourite was the story of Prague Castle. The history of people inhabiting the area dates back to at least 5000 BC. We saw all kinds of impressive old relics. The Convent of St George was another highlight as it housed Czech art from the last 2 centuries. There was a lot of it too. After so many pictures of mountain scenes and portraits we were a little weary. Walking towards something else we saw St. Vitus' line had dwindled to nothing so we went in. It was very impressive, especially the stained glass. Glad to get away from the crowds we went out through the gardens and eventually back to our hostel neighborhood for some chinese food dinner. We booked flights to the UK which was also quite exciting. We fly out of Berlin on July 16th. After dinner we were in search of a quiet drink at a Jazz club. Unfortunately the recommended location had an expensive cover, so we found a place nearby. However, there was some kind of party in the back room with music as well, so when the Jazz trio was due to come back on instead they refused to play. We left shortly after for a walk down the main street in the new town. It was full of Cabarets playing "Grease Lightning". We're back at the hostel now and its off to bed. We hope to avoid the tourists tomorrow. Wish us luck.
Na Shledanou
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Budapest
At the train station in Vienna we met a fellow named John from Detroit. We chatted with him all the way to Budapest. The train station in Budapest was full of people trying to sell us rooms. And there were sooo many tourist offices, all with different signage, they couldn't all have been run by the city tourism. Other than that and the occasional clouds of poo smell wafting by Budapest is great. I didn't really know what to expect and I have been blown away. The first night we had a fairly expensive dinner, but we both ordered traditional Hungarian food and it was delicious. It was July 1st, so we had to go out and celebrate after. The hostel receptionist directed us to this outdoor summer club. It was insane. The area had at least 6 bars, some food joints, two dance floors (one more for the metal crowd - I swear we saw Marilyn Manson... not really but you could tell this one guy was a big fan), a covered games area and a hot springs pool (bath) complete with a bar in the middle. There were tables and chairs everywhere too, so lots of places to sit. Surprisingly they played a lot of Canadian artists, which we were thrilled with. I wore my Maple Leaf bandanna hoping to attract others from our country to celebrate with, but this was the first place we went with no tourists. Haha, just when we actually wanted some. Well didn't let that spoil the night. Walking home we belted out the anthem on a bridge crossing the Danube with a marvelous view. This attracted the attention of a couple Hungarian guys who we shared the walk home with and conversed in broken sentences.
The next day we booked some bus tickets to Prague and walked the main street (Andrassy Utca) all the way to the city park and biggest Turkish bath in Budapest. Enroute we saw many fabulous buildings, although they were more run down than say in Vienna they were just as beautiful. Much of the city is undergoing improvements right now so maybe one day they will be restored. At the park we saw heroes square. It was enormous and full of monuments depicted important figures in Hungarian history. The baths however were the best part of the day. Imagine a hot springs, housed in an ancient building. You walk in and come out into a court yard of pools. It was great. I haven't felt that clean or refreshed in a long time. Afterwards we came across an open air pub where I won a Jagermeister bandanna, and on our way home from there we came across a summer Jazz festival. We stayed there well into the night as the music was spectacular. It was sort of a club at the bottom of an enormous set of stairs everyone was just hanging out on. Last night was a late one, so we busted out the earplugs and enjoyed a much needed night of long restful sleep.
Today we walked across the second oldest bridge across the Danube up to the city palace and Mathias church. They were also very amazing to look at. We stopped at the shops for some gifts etc. then trekked up the the citadel. The view was amazing and we came across a few interesting monuments along the way. On the way back down into the city we came across a park making use of the hill side. It had these 40ft tube slides, like in a regular playground, but to the extreme. I went flying down in a dress and in my effort to save the camera, popped right out onto my butt in the dirt, legs in the air. It was quite hilarious. We're back at the hostel for dinner and plan on going out again to the jazz festival tonight. Tomorrow we're on a bus for 7 hours to Prague. It's cheaper and sounds nicer than the train though... air conditioning, movies, free drinks.
Update: We went back to what we thought was the Jazz festival. Turns out it was just a club with really good live music. Not the case tonight. Haha, but a local heard my comment and added his own and we started chatting. He was really excited to show us the city. He was born in Budapest, but his parents moved him to DC when he was 14. He was gone for 10 years but came back 4 years ago and thinks there's no better place in the world. He was sad to here we were leaving in the morning, but at least recommended a cafe we would have to stop for breakfast... Luckily they take Visa as we spent all our Hungarian Forins except what we need to pay for the hostel in the morning. Should be good.
Szia (Sounds like "see ya" and is the informal Hungarian greeting. Works for hello and goodbye, like ciao. Reminiscent of Borat)
The next day we booked some bus tickets to Prague and walked the main street (Andrassy Utca) all the way to the city park and biggest Turkish bath in Budapest. Enroute we saw many fabulous buildings, although they were more run down than say in Vienna they were just as beautiful. Much of the city is undergoing improvements right now so maybe one day they will be restored. At the park we saw heroes square. It was enormous and full of monuments depicted important figures in Hungarian history. The baths however were the best part of the day. Imagine a hot springs, housed in an ancient building. You walk in and come out into a court yard of pools. It was great. I haven't felt that clean or refreshed in a long time. Afterwards we came across an open air pub where I won a Jagermeister bandanna, and on our way home from there we came across a summer Jazz festival. We stayed there well into the night as the music was spectacular. It was sort of a club at the bottom of an enormous set of stairs everyone was just hanging out on. Last night was a late one, so we busted out the earplugs and enjoyed a much needed night of long restful sleep.
Today we walked across the second oldest bridge across the Danube up to the city palace and Mathias church. They were also very amazing to look at. We stopped at the shops for some gifts etc. then trekked up the the citadel. The view was amazing and we came across a few interesting monuments along the way. On the way back down into the city we came across a park making use of the hill side. It had these 40ft tube slides, like in a regular playground, but to the extreme. I went flying down in a dress and in my effort to save the camera, popped right out onto my butt in the dirt, legs in the air. It was quite hilarious. We're back at the hostel for dinner and plan on going out again to the jazz festival tonight. Tomorrow we're on a bus for 7 hours to Prague. It's cheaper and sounds nicer than the train though... air conditioning, movies, free drinks.
Update: We went back to what we thought was the Jazz festival. Turns out it was just a club with really good live music. Not the case tonight. Haha, but a local heard my comment and added his own and we started chatting. He was really excited to show us the city. He was born in Budapest, but his parents moved him to DC when he was 14. He was gone for 10 years but came back 4 years ago and thinks there's no better place in the world. He was sad to here we were leaving in the morning, but at least recommended a cafe we would have to stop for breakfast... Luckily they take Visa as we spent all our Hungarian Forins except what we need to pay for the hostel in the morning. Should be good.
Szia (Sounds like "see ya" and is the informal Hungarian greeting. Works for hello and goodbye, like ciao. Reminiscent of Borat)
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Happy Canada Day!
First things first. Congratulations Lacey, Lincoln is beautiful and I'm glad he finally came out on his own. Everyone else Happy Canada Day!
So to ease the tension of the last post we did end up getting a room. We got one for last night as well. The annoying thing was having to check out everday at 10am, stash our bags and check back in later. But, unlike a lot of people in the city we actually had a place to sleep the night of Eurocup 2008. It was on a Sunday (kinda weird), so that morning we got up really early to attend Sunday mass at the Hofburg Palace chapel and see the Vienna boys choir. They were amazing, and the cutest thing since sliced bread. You couldn't actually see them during the service, they were up on a balcony, it was a small church. It was free for standing room, but super hot and I've never experienced this before, but I had some sort of spell about 45min in. I was dizzy, which made me sick feeling and felt like I couldn't breath, so we had to leave. Once outside I was fine.
After recouping on the steps we walked to where the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra was supposed to perform at 11am... Unfortunately it was cancelled due to the football :( It would have been an awesome show. We bummed around town for the day, saw some sights and outfitted ourselves as German fans for the evening festivities. Unfortunately Germany lost. Spain outplayed them incredibly. Everyone was in good spirits and there were no incidents we saw at least. Another funny thing to mention is we had dinner at the awesome Turkish place and there was this cute 11ish year old kid working there. Doing everything from folding napkins to working the bar, pouring drinks :P
Yesterday we went to KunstWeinHaus (aka. the Fairytale museum). It was built by and dedicated mostly to the works of Hunderwasser (I think thats how you spell it) a very environmentally concious artist from 1950 to about 2000. He also designed naturally harmonious buildings like schools and churches. The museum was cool. The floors were all uneven brick with non square windows etc. In the afternoon we checked out Schonbrunn Castle and wandered around in the extensive palace gardens. Its weird to see people going about a regular day in such a fantastic place. Kinda like Stanely Park, but the entire place is a manicured garden with statues and Roman ruins. Unbelievable. In the evening we went to the cinema and watched "The Third Man". Neither of us had heard of it before, but its a movie from the 50's set in post-war Vienna. There's actually Third Man tours here that take you to all the sights from the movie including the sewers. It was actually really good. We came back to the hostel afterwards and met some guys from Brown University and a guy travelling with them. Chatting in the lounge till 1am. We got our free drinks at the hostel bar (toasted to Canada day - it was after midnight) then went to find the place recommended by the people at the hostel. Unfortunately not a whole lot is open at 2:30am the Monday night after Eurocup. We were just giving up when we came across a Kebab stand (very common here) and he was selling 2 Euro beer (resonable for here) so we chilled out at his stand with a local guy (originally from Serbia I believe) we met in this whole process till about 5am. They were all good guys and the conversation was awesome. Haha so we paid for a hostel room we used for less than 5 hours, but we're still hanging around the place eating breakfast, taking care of laundry and using this computer ;)
At 1:52pm we're off on a train to Budapest. We have acquired an extra day or so so originally we were going to go to Bratislava, but have heard not good reviews from people, so we opted for Budapest instead, which people have raved about.
Well back to my domestic duties.
Adieu
So to ease the tension of the last post we did end up getting a room. We got one for last night as well. The annoying thing was having to check out everday at 10am, stash our bags and check back in later. But, unlike a lot of people in the city we actually had a place to sleep the night of Eurocup 2008. It was on a Sunday (kinda weird), so that morning we got up really early to attend Sunday mass at the Hofburg Palace chapel and see the Vienna boys choir. They were amazing, and the cutest thing since sliced bread. You couldn't actually see them during the service, they were up on a balcony, it was a small church. It was free for standing room, but super hot and I've never experienced this before, but I had some sort of spell about 45min in. I was dizzy, which made me sick feeling and felt like I couldn't breath, so we had to leave. Once outside I was fine.
After recouping on the steps we walked to where the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra was supposed to perform at 11am... Unfortunately it was cancelled due to the football :( It would have been an awesome show. We bummed around town for the day, saw some sights and outfitted ourselves as German fans for the evening festivities. Unfortunately Germany lost. Spain outplayed them incredibly. Everyone was in good spirits and there were no incidents we saw at least. Another funny thing to mention is we had dinner at the awesome Turkish place and there was this cute 11ish year old kid working there. Doing everything from folding napkins to working the bar, pouring drinks :P
Yesterday we went to KunstWeinHaus (aka. the Fairytale museum). It was built by and dedicated mostly to the works of Hunderwasser (I think thats how you spell it) a very environmentally concious artist from 1950 to about 2000. He also designed naturally harmonious buildings like schools and churches. The museum was cool. The floors were all uneven brick with non square windows etc. In the afternoon we checked out Schonbrunn Castle and wandered around in the extensive palace gardens. Its weird to see people going about a regular day in such a fantastic place. Kinda like Stanely Park, but the entire place is a manicured garden with statues and Roman ruins. Unbelievable. In the evening we went to the cinema and watched "The Third Man". Neither of us had heard of it before, but its a movie from the 50's set in post-war Vienna. There's actually Third Man tours here that take you to all the sights from the movie including the sewers. It was actually really good. We came back to the hostel afterwards and met some guys from Brown University and a guy travelling with them. Chatting in the lounge till 1am. We got our free drinks at the hostel bar (toasted to Canada day - it was after midnight) then went to find the place recommended by the people at the hostel. Unfortunately not a whole lot is open at 2:30am the Monday night after Eurocup. We were just giving up when we came across a Kebab stand (very common here) and he was selling 2 Euro beer (resonable for here) so we chilled out at his stand with a local guy (originally from Serbia I believe) we met in this whole process till about 5am. They were all good guys and the conversation was awesome. Haha so we paid for a hostel room we used for less than 5 hours, but we're still hanging around the place eating breakfast, taking care of laundry and using this computer ;)
At 1:52pm we're off on a train to Budapest. We have acquired an extra day or so so originally we were going to go to Bratislava, but have heard not good reviews from people, so we opted for Budapest instead, which people have raved about.
Well back to my domestic duties.
Adieu
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